Top
Tips from the Connoisseur
Anniversary
Wines
Each
year I get daily requests for vintage wines dated 10, 20, 30, 40 or
50 years old to coincide with a wedding anniversary or other important
occasion. Some years this isn't a problem, but when you look for 1956,
1966, 1976 or 1986 there isn't a lot of choice. Often the wine you
are offering as a gift has pretty ordinary organoleptic qualities.
Naturally we endeavour to supply...even Vintage Armagnacs, but if
it was me receiving the gift, I would prefer a case of really delicious
drinkable wine.
Which
would you choose?
a)
One bottle of 1967 d'Yquem at £300or
b) a case of Antipodean wines.
Buying
an old Vintage wine without tasting
These
are the things I would look for, assuming, I wanted to drink it rather
than dust it:
a)
A healthy colour reflecting light.b) Star bright clarity.c) A
mellow red-brown mature colour if red.
d) A yellow-gold colour if sweet white.e) Gold if dry white.
f) A normal bottle fill level, high quality wines can survive
to the top of the shoulder,
below this there is an ever increasing risk.
Buying
for other people
These
things would stop me from buying or offering as a gift.
a)
Amber / brown colour if red.
b) A brown or orange tint if white.
c) A blue tinge if rose.
d) Heavy sediment like tea leaves if red.
e) Muddy, creamy sediment in any wine.
f) Cloudiness in any wine.
g) Dullness in appearance.
h) Anything apart from cork suspended in the wine.
i) A necklace of pin prick sized bubbles around the miniscus.
Glossary
of wine terms
AMBER:
As it ages,
a white wine takes on golden tints remindful of amber. This colour
change results from oxidation of the colouring matter.
AMERTUNE:
An illness which
causes bottled wine to taste bitter and the colouring matter to solidify.
BALANCE:
Pleasant harmony between the various elements of a wine, such as alcohol,
acidity and fruitiness in a big wine, or acidity, fruitiness and softness
in a light wine.
CASSE:
Protein casse appears in white wines as a light milky creamy trailing
suspension meaning a broken filter during bottling. In a very young
wine it is harmless and the wine should be in condition. Blue casse
occurs in white and rose wines. This changes the appearance of the
wine and makes them undrinkable. Brown casse causes the colouring
matter to precipitate and causes a film on the wine's surface.
CORKED:
Expression used for a wine that has a very strong smell of rotten
cork making the wine undrinkable. This condition is caused by the
development of certain moulds.
DECANTING:
The process of separating a wine from its sediment in the bottle.
The addition of Oxygen makes a young wine more palatable but if the
wine is too old, the process is disastrous.
DEPOSIT:
The sediment of solid particles found in wine. In white wines these
are usually fragments of colourless, harmless crystals of tartrate.
In red wines these are usually a combination of tannins and pigments.
MADEIRISED:
An out of condition wine with a dark amber colour reminiscent
of Madeira, a smell of caramel and which ropes when poured.
ORGANOLEPTIC:
Smell, Colour and Taste as perceived by the senses.
OXIDATION:
When wine comes into contact with air, it takes up the oxygen
and this causes change in colour and taste.
SECHE:
When a wine has been exposed to excessive oxidation during ageing,
it takes on a rough, dried and bitter taste.
SOME
NOTES TO HELP YOU CHOOSE OUR
ANTIPODEAN AND NEW WORLD WINES.
GRAPE
VARIETIES
PINOT
NOIR; Cotes du Nuits style Burgundy red as opposed to lighter
styles.
CABERNET
SAUVIGNON / MERLOT: Bordeaux red with soft tannins and
vinosity.
SHIRAZ:
Northern Rhone if expensive, but generally rounder and drier than
other reds.
RIESLING
OVER 12% abv : Full bodied in the style of Burgundy, crisp
and dry.
RIESLING
UNDER 12% abv: Honied nose, oily texture remindful of German
wines but dry.
AUSTRALIAN
SAUVIGNON BLANC: Dry white Loire.
NEW
ZEALAND SAUVIGNON BLANC: More herbaceous with an impression
of sweetness if unoaked.
CHENIN
BLANC: Quite austere with high alcohol content, full bodied,
appeals to Chablis drinkers. South African Chenin Blanc is dry and
zesty yet easy drinking.
SEMILLON:
Inexpensive white Burgundy but higher priced wines are more like
White Beaune and are huge wines showing great elegance and finesse.
High acidity contents in both Chenin & Semillon allows the wine
to undergo malo-lactic fermentation and the grower to oak age his
wines, adding definition & character.
MOUVEDRE:
Southern Rhone / Languedoc reds.
PETITE
SIRAH: Full bodied reds with mouth filling Italian style
palates.
UNUSUAL
BLENDS OF GRAPE VARIETIES
PINOT
NOIR / SHIRAZ: These wines tend to more concentrated fruit
flavours with a drier finish.
CHARDONNAY
/ SEMILLON: drier with higher acidity, higher alcohol contents
but well defined.
CHARDONNAY
/ COLOMBARD: lighter and fresher.
TERMINOLOGY:
CLONAL
SELECTION: This is a horticultural operation whereby multiplication
of vineyard stock is obtained from one route stock only in identical
fashion leading to a vine which may be particularly resistant to disease,
frost or particularly suited to the soil in one vineyard.
DRY
RED No.1. Simply named wine often hides a wine of Classed
Growth complexities.
THE
RED: Simply named wine of extraordinary qualities and complexities.
FERMENTED
DRY: The wine may have high glycerine content giving an
impression of sweetness but the wine is dry to the palate.
UNCLONED
VINES: Vines which are propagated by taking cuttings from
vines which have been observed to produce the best quality fruit thus
ensuring gentic diversity and complexity of flavour.
UNFILTERED:
High quality wine which has been racked of every 3 to 6 months
during ageing in oak barriques allowing the wine to be bottled without
excessive fining & filtration thus leaving greater texture and
extract.
PRICE:
The more expensive the wine the more likely it has been aged in
oak barrique. Specialist wines from Mountadam, Yarra Yering, Cullen
and Saintsbury produce rich, profound and deeply concentrated red
and white wines with the sort of velvety tannins in the reds that
will keep them maturing in bottle for years. Attributes of wines can
be ascertained by doubling the price to reach an equivlent price in
European terms.
OAK
AGEING : French Oak gives Vanilla flavours,
definition & character. American Oak gives toasty aromas. Portuguese
& Russian Oak gives spicy finishes to the wines.